Tanjong Pagar Neil Road History: From rickshaws to cafes & rooftop bars

A bird's eye view of Tanjong Pagar's bustling streets and varied urban fabric. Image: discovertanjongpagar.sg
discovertanjongpagar.sg
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Walk down Neil Road today and you’ll find a strange mix you’d hardly find elsewhere: yoga studios next to temples, pubs across from hardware stores. The shophouses lining these streets have seen it all, from dockworkers and moneylenders, schoolgirls and samsui women, to now, brunch crowds and boutique hotels.

What makes these buildings so prominent in our city’s urban fabric is more than just their age and historical importance — it’s also how adaptable they’ve been. From the plain early tiles to the detailed, pastel Peranakan facades and the geometric Art Deco fronts, shophouses have quietly recorded the changes around them. Though they may look like frozen snapshots in time, they’re actually ever adapting. 

Tanjong Pagar Shophouse Typologies

Duxton Hill's traditional shophouses had been refurbished to be a colourful and iconic contributor to Tanjong Pagar's cityscape. Image: Wikipedia

Duxton Hill’s traditional shophouses had been refurbished to be a colourful and iconic contributor to Tanjong Pagar’s cityscape.

Wikipedia

Early Style (1840s–1900s)

These are the fundamental pillars of Singapore’s shophouse lineage: two storeys tall, with low-pitched roofs, timber-framed windows, and plain, almost austere facades. Decoration was minimal, driven more by pragmatic construction than aesthetic expression.

Google Map

You’ll find examples of this early style along Duxton Hill, particularly No. 43 Duxton Road, which showcases a clean, symmetrical facade with restrained detailing and shuttered windows; features typical of pre-ornamentation shophouses. These were built during a time when shophouses were purely utilitarian, intended to house immigrant families and small trades.

Transitional Style (1900s–1940s)

As wealth increased and a distinct Straits Chinese identity blossomed, shophouse facades began to morph. Introducing, coloured Peranakan tiles, floral plasterwork, French louvre windows, and the occasional kitschy phoenix motif.

Google Map

One standout example is former NUS Baba House on 157 Neil Road, nearby 147 Neil Road - the home of Lee Kuan Yew’s grandfather. It’s a picture of transitional elegance, with ornate stucco mouldings framing each window, while pastel-hued ceramic tiles and carved wooden doors reflect the cultural hybridity of the time. This typology is perhaps the most iconic in public imagination, often associated with Katong but very much alive in Tanjong Pagar too.

Everton Park showcases a diverse housing landscape, where shophouses, HDB flats, and condominiums can all be found along the same street.

Everton Park showcases a diverse housing landscape, where shophouses, HDB flats, and condominiums can all be found along the same street.

Isabel Lim

Art Deco (1930s)

With the global rise of modernist ideals, some shophouses in Tanjong Pagar adopted the Art Deco style — sleek, stylised, and geometric. Gone were the frilly bits; in came streamlined grooves, rounded corners, and sunburst motifs. Everton Road, especially No. 89, is a great example: a curving corner unit with vertical fins and understated reliefs. These buildings reflect the optimism of the interwar years, where businesses began branding themselves with contemporary aesthetics.

Post-War Modern (1950s onwards)

Following WWII and heading into Singapore’s independence, new shophouses turned utilitarian again, but not in the same way as their 19th-century ancestors. These blocks embraced exposed concrete, basic fenestration, and open stairwells. The shophouses at Tanjong Pagar Road, near Craig Road, reveal this shift: fewer decorative elements, flat roofs, and a bulkier massing. These units often reflect the grit of a city in flux—less about identity, more about economy and density.

A thoughtfully placed statue in Telok Ayer Green serves as a tribute to the working lives of early migrants.

A thoughtfully placed statue in Telok Ayer Green serves as a tribute to the working lives of early migrants.

Isabel Lim

Neil Road History

The story of Neil Road starts the way many streets in Singapore do: with a British name slapped on it. Named after Colonel James George Smith Neill, a British officer killed in the Indian Rebellion of 1857, Neil Road reflects the classic colonial practice of memorialising empire through toponyms. Like many roads in the area, it once went by another name: Silat, referencing the nearby Malay kampong.

By the early 1900s, Neil Road and its neighbouring lanes were rapidly urbanising. What started as a coastal fishing community (Tanjong Pagar literally means “cape of stakes,” referring to the kelongs along the shore) began morphing into a bustling commercial and residential area.

The proximity to the port meant traders, dockworkers, and immigrants set up shop here. The shophouse was the architectural response: dense, modular, and multifunctional. These buildings housed families upstairs and businesses on the ground floor, creating an organic rhythm of life and commerce.

Image: Isabel Lim
Isabel Lim

Neil Road’s Preservation and Planning

Fast-forward to the late 20th century: post-independence Singapore was in full redevelopment mode. Many older districts were bulldozed in the name of progress, but Tanjong Pagar narrowly escaped. In 1989, the Urban Redevelopment Authority (URA) designated Neil Road, Duxton Hill, and the surrounding Tanjong Pagar enclave as one of the first Conservation Areas in Singapore. This was part of a broader shift in national consciousness, when people started realising that not every trace of the past had to be sacrificed for high-rise efficiency.

Conservation goes beyond keeping everything exactly as it was — it allows for adaptive reuse, like turning old clan houses into design studios, coffee shops, and boutique hotels while keeping their facades intact. Neil Road, with its stylistic range from Early to Art Deco shophouses, became a kind of open-air museum: a curated memoryscape amidst a sea of modern glass towers.

Tong Ah Eating House. Image: Wikipedia

Tong Ah Eating House

Image: Wikipedia

Neil Road’s Social and Cultural Impact

Neil Road’s value is both architectural and deeply human. These buildings have seen the ebb and flow of different generations, from Chinese Peranakan matriarchs, Malay traders, Indian moneylenders, to Eurasian teachers. Each layer of life added something to the streetscape: a smell of incense here, a tiled nameplate there, children’s laughter echoing through five-foot ways.

Over time, Tanjong Pagar has gone from a working-class hub to a lifestyle enclave. Gentrification has brought craft beer, natural wine, and omakase  — but even so, the essence of the neighbourhood remains readable. You can still spot grandmothers airing blankets over window grilles, or hear Teochew murmuring at a corner kopitiam. The shophouses themselves act like social memory vaults that anchor a younger, more cosmopolitan demographic to something older and rooted.

Today, Neil Road stands as proof that heritage and modernity don’t always have to be enemies. It’s where colonial ambition, post-independence pragmatism, and contemporary reinvention meet in 3-storey increments.

Image: Edgeprop
Edgeprop

Neil Road Property Values & Investment

According to EdgeProp, three “trophy” conservation shophouses recently listed for sale fetched approximately S$36 million, working out to about S$6,000 psf based on floor area. Similarly, a standalone 99-year leasehold unit at 93 Tanjong Pagar Road (4,186 sq ft) came with a guide price of S$15.5 million, or roughly S$3,700 psf.

Even mid-tier units retain premium value. A 3-storey conservation shophouse at 91 Tanjong Pagar Road was listed at S$10.2 million (guide price) , while a listing at 27 Neil Road was advertised around S$8 million m.facebook.com. These prices far surpass standard private housing and reflect the scarcity and commercial viability of conserved shophouse stock.

Tanjong Pagar Rental

Tanjong Pagar’s shophouses are typically zoned commercial under the URA Master Plan, allowing unrestricted foreign ownership without the Additional Buyer’s Stamp Duty (ABSD). These zones have attracted investors who lease the spaces to restaurants, design studios, and lifestyle brands.

Therefore, rents have scaled accordingly: ground-floor units on Neil Road or Duxton Hill, averaging 1,000–1,200 sq ft, often fetch between $15,000 to $25,000 monthly, depending on frontage and foot traffic. Legacy tenants like hardware shops, coffee vendors, and traditional trades often remain thanks to long-term leases—even as boutique F&B and creative firms increasingly dominate street scenes.

The upper floors of shophouses can vary in use, though residential units are becoming increasingly rare. Image: Isabel Lim

The upper floors of shophouses can vary in use, though residential units are becoming increasingly rare.

Isabel Lim

Commercial vs Residential Use

While the ground floors are commercial, many upper levels (once family homes) are occasionally still used for residential purposes or staff quarters. However, the trend points towards commercial landlordism: most upper floors now serve as offices, storage, or boutique atelier space rather than family units. This tightening of tenancy is gradually reshaping the lived memory of the block, as the buildings shift from mixed-use community anchors toward income-driven assets.

Tanjong Pagar shophouses have both beauty and brawn — they’re both instagram hotspots and active economic players in Singapore’s property landscape. With $4,423–6,000 psf transaction prices, $15–25k/month rents, and flexible zoning, they’ve evolved into prime investment vehicles. But the downside? As heritage becomes a commodity, local personalities (old shops, local voices) risk getting priced out. Balancing conservation with authentic street life is now the real challenge.

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